Hot, rainy elk weekend - well worth it
Hot, rainy elk weekend - well worth it
By Tyler Frantz
Sweltering, near-90-degree temperatures are not ideal for tent camping or wildlife viewing. Neither is the rain. But those were the cards we were dealt for last weekend’s trip to “Elk Country” in the Pennsylvania Wilds.
September in the northern tier typically sees an average daytime high somewhere in the 70s range with overnight lows in the mid 50s, or even upper 40s. That makes for some incredibly comfortable under-the-stars sleeping weather. Erin and I were fortunate to enjoy those cool nights and crisp mornings on our previous two camping trips to see the elk, and the number of wapiti sightings recorded as a result of the colder weather was tough to beat.
We missed last fall since our little man was only 5-months fresh at the time, and though “Native Americans raised young children in much harsher and wilder conditions back in the day” (as I commonly inform my wife), it was probably wise to hold off on the primitive camping for another year- if for nothing else, our own sanity.
So when my 2016 calendar flipped to September, the evening sky registered clear, and the mercury dipped just enough for me to light some tinder in the old fire pit out back, I couldn’t help but gaze into the dancing flames and immediately feel the stirrings for a return trip to Benezette.
My sales pitch to Erin went smoothly. She agreed it would be good to test out camping with Foster since he loves being outside all the time anyway. It’d be nice family time, and we might even find some big bulls to once again hear those hair-raising, heart-pounding bugles that rattle the morning dew from the trees. 
Within a few hours, I shot a quick email to Candy at Big Elk Lick Horse Camp (rickandcandy@gmail.com) to check if she had any last minute openings for a tent campsite still available. As usual, Candy worked her magic and squeezed us in. She and Rick run a really unique operation, where equine enthusiasts can trailer their horses to ride the nearby trails, and regular Joes like me can camp or park their RV for an inexpensive rate right in the heart of elk country.
Our secluded campsite had a picnic table and fire ring, bathroom amenities within walking distance and all the elk action close by. The horses and friendly campers only add to the charm of the place. We simply love it there.
Arriving at dusk Friday, I was able to pitch our tent by headlight, just as the rain began to fall. It was definitely hotter than I would’ve liked, but my tent and tarp ingenuity held strong, keeping us dry throughout the night. Both Foster and bird dog Cali slept peacefully between us, making the decision to pack a spacious air mattress irrefutably sound.
Saturday morning began with a 5:30 wakeup, fire-brewed coffee and muffins for breakfast (milk and cheerios for Foster, dog food for Cali) and a somewhat behind schedule 7 a.m. arrival on Winslow Hill.
Considering we hadn’t unpacked much the night before and had a rambunctious 1-year old to entertain throughout the process, I think we made pretty good time. But the air was sultry and not much was moving. We saw a young raghorn bull and a few cows, a couple whitetails and a black squirrel, but that was it.
Instead, we decided to do a little driving tour of the area to scope out the new changes to the elk-viewing scene.
First, the Winslow Hill Viewing Area has a revamped look. A paved parking lot and viewing station have been put in place, but Dewey Road, which used to get parked full with cars, is no longer accessible as it previously was from Winslow Hill Road.
Visitors can still drive down Dewey’s gravel lane by passing below the parking area, but guardrails and signs prevent people from parking and walking into the viewing area, except on limited trails. 
The signs read, “Elk viewing area closed to entry. This area is set aside for elk to live and feed in an undisturbed setting. Entry to this area is prohibited by law from June 1st - first day of archery season. Elk can be viewed in this area from outside the posters. This allows visitors to enjoy viewing them without causing the elk to leave the area.” “Feeding, harassing, approaching elk or entering this posted area for any reason is prohibited. Enjoy your visit and respect these regulations. Thank you! Pennsylvania Game Commission.”
Another change is the newly added Woodring Farm Trail and Scenic Overlook. PGC staff was offering guided trail hikes from its headquarters building near the parking lot area, and a small pull-off location for roadside viewing has been added across the street as well. We saw four cows and some deer here Saturday evening.
Of course, we had to stop at the Elk Country Visitor Center for Foster to explore the interactive learning stations, marvel at the full sized taxidermy mounts and peruse the gift shop before heading back to camp for dinner over the coals.
It rained again Saturday night, but the storm cooled the air considerably for Sunday morning’s trip to the hill. Leaving earlier than the day before, we drove a couple hundred yards from the campground to spot a harem of cows feeding into a field. Pulling safely off the roadway, I put my truck in park and rolled down the windows. Less than a minute later, a massive 7x7 bull trotted from the timber and let loose an echoing scream.
For 10 minutes, he corralled his girls- some with calves in tow- before pushing them back into the sanctuary of the hardwoods. With the low light, I struggled to get many decent photos of the big brute, but his antics surely captured Foster’s full attention- so much that he mimicked bugles from his car seat and stroller the rest of the morning.
It is so special to share the wonders of the outdoors with those we love, and elk country is the perfect place to do it. Sure, it was a hot and rainy weekend. Conditions were less than ideal. But my son saw his first elk and had a ball camping for the first time. My wife and I slowed down enough to relax and enjoy quality conversation. And Cali just seemed elated to tag along and clean the camp dinner plates. These are simple pleasures that can only be measured by the place one holds for them in his heart. Holding my wife’s hand along a walking trail, seeing our son’s precious fascination with nature, and hearing bugles through the stillness of a September night all fill my heart beyond words. To me, that’s well worth the trip.
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